Eating Hearty in 1896

Today’s post was written by fellow author and friend, Linda W. Yezak. I loved learning about the Harvey Girls in Linda’s novella, Loving a Harvey Girl, from the Smitten Collection “The Cowboys.” It’s so wonderful for me to be in this Western romance collection with three other talented authors! Welcome to Historical Nibbles, Linda!

Back when the Atchison, Topeka, and the Santa Fe Railroads were the travel mode of choice, restauranteurs learned how to get more than their fair share of the passengers’ coins. As the train engineers replenished the water for their steam engines, hungry passengers would file to the establishments in search of food and refreshment. But often the locals got dollar signs in their eyes and honesty floated out the window. Special tricks included overcharging the out-of-towners, scraping leftovers together and serving them to the next crowd, and accepting pay in advance for food that wouldn’t be served before the train left the station.

That’s where Fred Harvey came in. Around 1870, he approached the president of the ATSF railway, Charlie Morse, about an idea to open Harvey House restaurants and hotels all along the train’s stops to assure great food at a fair price to the passengers. Within fifteen years, he had seventeen Harvey Houses, all staffed by women he picked, generally from “back east,” and trained in Kansas.

By 1896, Fannie Farmer published her cookbook, The Boston Cooking-School Cookbook, that came complete with actual measurements. Until that point, a pinch of this and a heap of that probably made up the instructions in most recipes. Though the title indicates the cookbook was from Boston, I imagine it became a staple across the nation before long, and it wouldn’t surprise me if ol’ Fred Harvey didn’t use it himself for his restaurants. If he did, I’d be willing to bet “Eggs à la Suisse” would be one of the Harvey Girls’ favorites among the breakfast dishes. Incredibly easy to make, this dish could feed lots of people in no time, but this recipe is just for two—or maybe one, depending on how hungry he is.

4 eggs

½ cup cream

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons shredded cheese

salt

pepper

cayenne

Melt the butter in a small omelet pan, then add the cream. As the cream warms up, slip the eggs in one at a time. Sprinkle with the seasonings. When the whites get firm, top the eggs with cheese and serve hot.

Combine this with bacon and biscuits, and you have a hearty meal.

-Linda Yezak

Linda Yezak

About Linda

Linda W. Yezak lives with her husband and their funky feline, PB, in a forest in deep East Texas, where tall tales abound and exaggeration is an art form. She has a deep and abiding love for her Lord, her family, and salted caramel. And coffee—with a caramel creamer. Author of award-winning books and short stories, she didn’t begin writing professionally until she turned fifty. Taking on a new career every half century is a good thing. Connect with her on her website , Amazon page , and BookBub.

Loving a Harvey Girl by Linda W. Yezak

Eva Knowles can’t imagine why the local preacher doesn’t like Harvey Girls—women who work serving tables instead of finding a husband and falling in love. But if Eva can get the handsome and wayward cowboy Cal Stephens to join her in church, maybe the reverend will accept the girls. Or maybe she’ll forfeit her job for a husband, hearth, and home!

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